Why Prune Roses?
Good advice on rose pruning should always begin with a question: why? Why should you bother cutting your roses at all? What happens if you don’t?
Here’s the short answer: they’ll grow, bloom, and probably survive just fine. But without pruning, you might face a few issues:
- Shrubs get taller than you’d like, putting blooms out of reach.
- Plants take on an uneven, sprawling shape or invade pathways and other plants.
- Dead, damaged, or diseased stems stick around, doing no favors to anyone.
- Congestion in the shrub reduces airflow and sunlight, inviting disease.
In short, pruning helps with size, shape, health, and thinning. Plus, it often encourages vigorous new growth and more blooms.
When to Skip Pruning
If your rose is still young and establishing itself, or if it already has a pleasing shape and healthy growth, you can skip heavy pruning. For established roses, I usually remove one or two older stems from the base to encourage fresh growth—but even that’s optional.
For once-blooming roses, such as old garden roses, species roses, and ramblers, prune after flowering to avoid cutting away the very stems that produce their spectacular displays.
I’ve created a video to show my process: first a rough cut for size and shape, then finer cuts to remove old or damaged stems. Check it out here: How to Prune Roses.
Common Rose Pruning Rules (and My Take)
You’ve probably heard a lot of pruning rules—some useful, some outdated. Let’s go through the most common ones and see what holds up:
1. Prune When Forsythia Blooms
This advice makes sense in temperate climates, as forsythia blooms in late winter, a good time to target cold damage. But you can prune later—yes, even after flowering—and still get great results.
2. Remove Dead, Diseased, Damaged, or Crossing Stems
Absolutely. This is basic gardening wisdom and a productive way to start. I often remove extra height first to get a clear look at the shrub’s interior before tackling these finer cuts.
Be sure to disinfect your tools between shrubs, especially if you suspect bacterial diseases like crown gall (Agrobacterium tumefaciens). Clean tools reduce the risk of spreading harmful pathogens.
3. Prune to an Outward-Facing Bud
Not necessary. Roses shoot from multiple buds below a cut, so choosing an outward-facing one won’t dictate growth direction. It’s fussy advice that confuses new growers.
4. Prune Low and Leave a Few Stems
This “rule” assumes all roses behave like hybrid teas. Many garden roses resent being cut down to 18 inches. Instead, tailor your pruning to the plant’s growth habit and your garden’s style.
5. Use Clean, Sharp Tools and Disinfect Between Roses
Yes. Clean cuts reduce die-back, and disinfected tools help prevent disease spread. This one’s good advice for all plants, not just roses.
6. Cut at an Angle and Seal the Cuts
Nope. Research shows larger cut surfaces—like those created by angled cuts—can actually worsen outcomes. And sealing cuts with glue or nail polish? Not worth the hassle.
Cane borers are often cited as the reason for sealing cuts, but most of the serious cane borers that affect roses don’t enter through fresh pruning cuts in late winter. Serious pests like the rednecked cane borer (Agrilus ruficollis) and raspberry cane borer (Oberea bimaculata) lay eggs on the active growing tips of rose canes, with larvae tunneling inside. Look for swelling or galls on stems as signs of infestation.
Instead of sealing cuts, monitor for damage during the active season (June to July). If you spot swelling or wilted tips, prune below the affected area to remove the larvae.
7. Aim for a Balanced Shape and Open Center
Yes. A bit of thinning and shaping will improve air circulation, sunlight exposure, and overall garden performance. Let’s not overcomplicate it.
Timing Matters for Some Roses
Most roses can handle pruning at nearly any time of year. But once-blooming varieties, like species roses and some old garden types, depend on older stems for flowering. Prune these too severely or at the wrong time, and you’ll lose their impressive display.
Here’s a video and flowchart to help you decide when to prune: When to Prune Roses.
Rejuvenation Pruning: Why It Matters
Even if your rose seems to be in great shape, it’s a good idea to consider removing one or two of the oldest stems every year. Over time, older stems lose their vigor and become less productive, contributing little to flowering while taking up valuable space in the shrub.
By removing these older stems, you encourage fresh, vigorous growth from the base of the plant. These new shoots are not only stronger but also better positioned to produce abundant blooms and maintain the shrub’s overall health and structure.
This practice, often called rejuvenation pruning, helps prevent congestion within the plant, improving airflow and sunlight penetration to the center. It’s especially useful for mature roses, which may otherwise become overgrown and decline in performance. For a detailed article on rejuvenation pruning, I like this post by Paul Zimmerman.
Bonus Tips for Late Winter Pruning
If you’re pruning in late winter, take a few extra steps:
- Remove any old leaves still clinging to the plant.
- Clear fallen leaves from the base to reduce disease carryover.
- Refresh or replace mulch to protect roots and improve soil health.
- Apply a light dose of organic amendments like compost, manure, or alfalfa pellets to give your roses a strong start while enhancing soil fertility.
By combining pruning with soil care, you’re setting your roses up for a healthier, more vigorous growing season.
Final Thoughts
Pruning roses doesn’t have to be a chore or a mystery. Keep it simple: focus on size, shape, health, and thinning. Your roses will thank you with vigorous growth and beautiful blooms.
Whether you’re a rule-follower or a “you do you” gardener, the most important thing is to take action. With a little practice, you’ll find pruning roses as rewarding as the flowers themselves.
